Friday, September 11, 2015

Historical Emara Palace of Najran

NAJRAN QASR AL EMARA

Emara Castle can be found easily since it is located in the town proper. It is just beside the famous Najran sooq (market) which is famous for daggers. It is a few kilometers from Al Okhdood historical site or just a 20 minutes ride within city center.

Emara Castle Backyard

Posing at the Castle Main Entrance

Emara Castle is a historical building located in the central ancient city in Najran (Aba Al Saud Historical Area), with an area of about 625 square meters. It is considered as one of the most famous heritage buildings. It is a model of the traditional architecture in the region and was constructed in 1363H. The whole Emara building was composed of 65 rooms. In the past, it was the premises of the Emara and some other government departments such as the Shari'a court, Telegram Department (Wireless Telecomm), and the police unit, and it was also used as a housing for the governor and his deputy and personal companions (khawis). The building takes the shape of a castle with high walls. There are round towers on the four corners of the castle for watching and guarding visitors and against enemy attacks. Inside the building can be found a mosque and an old well which dates back to pre-Islamic age. The castle was built from mud with its foundations built of stones. Emara Palace is one of the most prominent building in the region.

Castle Walls

The traditional architecture of Najraan region is characterized by the houses, palaces and castles built with mud and which are considered to be the most significant and unique in the Arabian Peninsula. The old Governorate or Qasr Al-Emara in "Aba As-Saud" is a magnificent and a typical representation of Najraan architectural style. It was built in 1361 AH during the period of Amir Turki Bin Mohammed Al-Madhi to serve as the Governorate and for the residence of his family and the security guards.

Wall inscriptions inside Emara Qastle

Original Door and Design inside Emara Qastle

The thick walls of the palace are built with mud, while the narrow doors and high widows were made so for the purpose of security and defense and to keep the temperature moderate throughout the year. The roofs are covered with date logs and leaves and plastered with mud and clay. There are sixty rooms in the palace; most of them were used as Amirs offices. It is surrounded by a high wall and circular watch towers on its four corners. There is an old well located in the middle of the palace, the interior of which is lined by red baked bricks, it date back to pre-Islamic period. The palace has been restored and renovated in 1406 - 1407 AH (1986 - 1987 AD). It is being developed as an ethnological museum of the region.

At the Castle Backyard......

Monday, October 1, 2012

Al Okhdud (Najran)

Al Okhdood is located in the province of Najran, and estimated to be between 950 km. to 1050 km. from Riyadh. Visitors may opt to travel by plane since a number of local air service providers are offering daily flights to Najran. Traveling to Najran requires 7 to 8 hours drive passing thru the town of Dilam, Hawtat Bani Tamim, Layla, and Sulayyil, the same road leading to the Asir provinces of Abha and Khamis Mushayt thru Wadi Dawasir. To those who wishes to continue their trip to Khamis via Najran, another route can be enjoyed passing thru Dahran Janoub. Motorists should take extra care on this route but the the sights are very rewarding.

The road to Najran was already reconstructed and widened from Riyadh until Najran, with two separate roads for each directions. Motorists are cautioned to abide by the traffic rules as a number of monitoring devices and patrol cars are positioned along the highway. Al-Okhdood is the site of an ancient city in the southern part of Saudi Arabia, founded in the 6th or 7th century BC.

The farming community survived possibly until they were annihilated by their Jewish rulers. The buildings are in ruins but still carry inscriptions and pictures. Treasures with silver coins, porcelain pottery and obelisks have also been excavated from several locations in the place.

The campaign for a place on the UNESCO list was launched after a recent article in Al-Bilad Arabic daily stressing the historical and cultural significance of Al-Okhdood and shortly taken up by bloggers. They also appealed to the Saudi Commission for Tourism and Archeology to take necessary steps.

"It is my sincere wish to include this extraordinary historical location in the UNESCO World Heritage list," said Mani Dawus, who wrote “Maria," the first historical novel based on Al-Okhdood city. Leading Saudi intellectuals who are part of the campaign include Turki Al-Hamad, Muhammad Al-Almaei, Saeed Al-Qahtani, Ebtisam Mutawakkil and Ali Sarar.

Ali Sarar, a historian, said Al-Okhdood was the town where Christians were tortured and burned to death about 1,500 years ago.

The charred bones and thick ashes are still found at some ruins that hint at the story of the horrible religious persecutions dating back to 525 AD.

"The Al-Okhdood sites would require at least 30 years of extensive excavations to unearth its buried secrets," director of archeology in the Najran province Saleh Aal Mereah said, adding that what already had been excavated was only a fragment.

A visitor to the site first sees an encircling wall made of clay and square stones and with guard posts at the top. Inside the wall, the ruins of a huge castle are found among cleared bushes of Arak and Samar trees.

Its walls carry inscriptions, names, and engravings of animals and humans. From the top of the castle the whole city and surrounding regions could be viewed.

The story of the people of Al-Okhdood is mentioned in the chapter “Buruj” of the Holy Qur’an, which refers to a Jewish Himyarite king burning alive thousands of his citizens for converting to Christianity.

From The Blog Author

It is advisable to visit first Najran museum located veside Okhdud site. Here, you will be able to read the history and glanced at old pictures about Okhdud and Najran which will make your visit more fruitful. It's an unforgettable experience, each steps of every stone staircases that your feet will step in was still untouched. It was as it is thousand of years ago except for the changes made by nature as time passes by. You will be amazed how inscriptions and early writings made thousands of years ago are preserved from the damage of civilization and modernization. It is now here, just in front of you, written a long long long time ago.

During my visit, we are not permitted to bring any bags or back packs. One of the locals later told me that it was believed that there are lots of treasures still not yet uncovered in the site.

Images taken by the author :

Najran Museum

Okhdud Site

Site Entrance

The first Stairs to the building

Writings on the wall

Another set of writings on the wall

The stones which makes the wall are the original stones thousands of years ago..just touching this bricks is already a history for me.....

From The Museum

The same inscriptions taken by the author at Okhdud site

Here are the latest update and project done in Al Okhdud.

(Source : Saudi Tourism website)

Project: Excavation Works on Al Okhdood Site

Area: Najran Province

Executing agency: Antiquities Sector

The team carried out tourism readiness work at Al Okhdood Castle and its surrounding western areas. Tasks included:

Pathway created for visitors at Fed Site

Arak and Thamar trees are removed from the castle site. Eradicated the roots of these trees completely, and carried them to the waste dump outside the city of Najran..

Western entrance of the castle identified, its external and internal staircases cleaned and rebuilt, and castles’ outer facade identified and some disturbed stones were fixed.

Cleaning and preparation of the main street leading from the west gate to the center of the castle. Drawings and carvings of some of the snakes and horses on the walls were cleared as well as cleaned up some sub-path ways.

Opening of the main street needs minor attention. It is hoped that it would be possible to finish it in the next season. Thereafter tourists will be able to visit Al Okdood Castle as well as be aware of the most important evidences in the castle. Visitors will also be able to enter and exit through the eastern gate, besides site seeing the castle’s interior corridors and the mosque, which was detected in 1996.
The team continued the excavations, which began since the past five seasons in the eastern side of the castle as a continuation of the earlier work. Along with the excavation work in the middle of the castle this began with the preparation of the main street and sub-entrances.

One of the excavation sits after completion

Major findings:

Treasure: The first ever discovered treasure first in the Arabian Peninsula through the excavations. It goes back to the era before Islam. It is a pottery jar filled with silver coins. Clear from other sources that the trove belonged to the king Qatabani (Yadi Abenif), who ruled in the second half of the first AD, as it appears on the obverse side of the coin the name of the royal palace in Tamanou, and the symbol of a local deity (Ambe) and on the back of the coin the image of the king appears. On some coins, one side shows the code and the name of the royal palace Himiry (Raydan) Dhofar, and the name of the King (Ben Amdan). It is a clear sign of confrontation as there is the name of the other kings of Himiry on some other currencies.

Treasure: A pottery jor filled with coins found during excavation

Writings on metal plates: These are writings using prominent letters and these are ascribed to the southern style. One of these plates is complete while the other one is incomplete. They both speak of religiious rites and devotional issues.

A bronze place with engravings of religious practices

Obelisks with engravings: The most significant ones are Obelisks, which were found near a building in the center of the castle. It believed to have been a temple in the vicinity because the obelisk's writings are speaking about religious rules.

Obelisk with writiings associated with religious practice

Braziers: A set of braziers were found, most of them were sculpted of granite, on its both the faces of which are written names of types of incense.
Pottery vessels: The found vessels are not different from the last seasons' discoveries, despite being few. They were covered with various repeating ubiquotiouis zigzag edges that featured the previous jar and pottery styles.
Altars: Altars are found inside a medium-sized excavation. The altar heads bear animal figures, most prominent of which was of ox-head. Some remains of blood was found on some of these altars.

Ox head - found on the apex of an altar used for worships

Artistic figures: Various art figures were found. All of them were rusty metal, although these were easy to be identified, such as camels, ox head in addition to human statues.

Other various materials: These materials were different in terms of figures and substance, some of which were beautifully decorated items on granite plates, in addition to metal rings and ston and gypsum pieces bearing architectural decorations.

Monday, September 17, 2012

Hail.....The Oasis City of Nejd

History

The history of Hail dates back to prehistoric times passing through the pre-Islamic age and the Islamic era. It was one of the most secure sites in the Arabian Peninsula and neither Al Hîra Kings in Iraq nor the Ghassanid kings of the Levant could over take Hail until the Kingdom’s unification in 1351H (1932).

Hail is a multi cultured province; it joins the Assyrian and Babylonian cultures as indicated in the Talmudic and Safavid inscribed on rocks and stones. These rocks and stones are considered to be important tourism attractions.

Hail has always been associated with the famous legendary character -Hatim Altaay- who is known for his extreme generosity. Hail is also associated with the historic Hajj routes, used by pilgrims and trade caravans. Hail Province is home to many poets and literates, and was visited by many famous European explorers throughout the 19^th and 20^th centuries, although the access to Hail was very difficult in those days.

Hail Town as shot from A'arif Castle

Geographic Location

Hail is located in the center of the northern part of Saudi Arabia. It is located between the 25 and 29 degrees latitude and 38 and 42 degrees longitude. The Province is surrounded by five administrative provinces and they are: Jouf, Northern Boarders, Tabouk, Maddinah, and Qaseem.

Hail Province is known for its strategic location since it connects the north to the north east and passengers from all over the Kingdom pass by Hail on their way to Makkah. It covers an area of approximately 11,823 square km. This is approximately 6% of the total area of the Kingdom. The Province consists of 4 major administrative centers, including three cities and Hail which is the center of the province. The Province has 66 administrative centers.

Hail Province view from top taken during a trip to
the Northern borders

Climate

Hail's climate is continental. Day temperatures are very warm and can reach an average of 30-34 degrees Celsius during the summer but cool down after sunset to more mild temperatures. Winter temperatures on the other hand, are very cool and decrease to 5-15 degrees Celsius during winter and may even fall to below zero temperatures. Rain falls during winter and spring. Winds drift with an average speed of 10 km/hour. Spring is the best season for visiting Hail, when the climate is mild and rainy.

Topography

Hail Province is known for its diverse topography as it consists of valleys, mountains, and sand and rock formations. Hail’s main topography features can be classified into: Al-Hmmad area which is known for its calcareous hills and deep valleys, Nfoud desert that covers an area of 40 thousand square kilometers, and makes up approximately 1/3 of the area, Sand formations which cover vast areas such as A`roug Almadhoor. It is located to the west of the Dahna desert, which is one of the most important grazing areas in the region and the best place for camping in the summer, and finally, Rock formations which are located to the west of Hail and cover about 1/3 of the Province. It is one of the most famous tourism sites in Hail and contain the most prominent mountains such as the mountain of Salma, Ajja, Heden, Ruman, Louf, Khashab, A`qab and other prominent mountains.

A view of Hail rocks and sands from the plane captured
in one of my flight to Qurayat

Population

Hail had a population of 260.000 people in 1394H, and increased to reach 421.100 people in 1413H and 520.000 people in 1420H, which is about 2.5% of the Kingdom’s population. More than 43% of the population lives in Hail city, where the rest are distributed around other centers and administrative areas. The population density is about 4.4 person/square kilometer, with a growing average of 2.8%. There is a great immigration movement in the Province, where large numbers of its residents moved to other provinces in the Kingdom. In 1419H 18% of Hail Province residents moved to live in other provinces, but visit Hail during school holidays and social events.

Prayer Times

Prayer time in Hail province is 4-20 minutes earlier than Makkah prayer time. You can check Hail’s prayer time in Um AlQurra calendar.

Please abide by the conservative dress code followed by men and women in public places.

Culture and Heritage

Hail Province is the land of generosity and hospitality and the land of culture and heritage, where ever you go in Hail you can find what you are looking for. Hail contains different historic monuments of different ages and eras; these monuments include a great urban heritage represented in the unique traditional houses and palaces with attractive designs.

Hail is also rich in traditional handicrafts and industries. Traditional souks and shops reflect the customs, believes, and traditions of Hail society that are based on the Islamic rules and regulations.

In Hail you can enjoy traditional literature such as poetry, stories, narratives, and legendry; traditional acting arts such as the traditional dances. You can also enjoy different sports and activities such as horse riding, horse and camel racing competitions, and hunting using falcons and saluki dogs. Hail is rich with traditional clothes and jewelry, it is also rich in its traditional dishes that are famous not only in the Kingdom but in the neighboring countries as well.

Camel shepherd along Hail road

An old tower built beside the boulder

Vehicles displayed along the road enroute to a town in Hail

Nature and Environment

Hail is rich with its beautiful natural sites represented in the mountains, deserts, and the botanical and zoological life, although animals are rare in many areas. There are some caves, craters, and beautiful plateaus with great scenery and soft breeze.

Sports and Adventures

Hail is famous for its diverse sports and activities related to the beautiful nature of this area, such as hiking in Ajja Mountains. Hail is also famous for hunting in different hunting seasons. Those who prefer dune driving (Tat’Ees) can enjoy Nfoud sands.

In Hail you can practice horse riding that people of Hail are famous for, and gun firing provided that you use special shotguns licensed by the related authorities in the Kingdom. Football is also very popular in Hail as it is the number one sport in the Kingdom.

Enjoying an Arabian horse ride in Hail. A rare experience for an expat...

A ladder made of steel that serves as a short cut going to

the other side of the mountain...

Tours and Trips

You can reach Hail Province by air using Hail Provincial Airport that is connected to all main airports in the Kingdom, or by land using three main roads:

1 . Riyadh-Qaseem

2 . Ulla

3 . Maddinah

4 . There are other roads leading to Rafah, Northern Borders, and the Eastern Province

(Reference : Saudi Tourism except all images which are owned by the author)

I travelled to Hail province a number of times during my stay in the kingdom. Mostly, I traveled through the Riyadh - Qasseem highway, and I am proud to say that I am very much familiar with this route.

Here are the historical and heritage sites that I visited while in Hail :

A’arif Port

A'arif Fort is located in Hail City, one of the province located in the Northern part of Saudi Arabia, and around 650 Km. from Riyadh. Driving to this city took us 6 hours passing to the province of Buraydah and Unayzah city. In case you opted for an air trip..it will be around an hour trip only from Riyadh.

The historic fort of A'arif is said to be built at the end of 11th century Hejra and the beginning of 12th century Hejra. The fort was first built with mud and clay, rectangular in shape and around 40m x 11m in size. It was built to protect and also as a defense for the city.

The first construction of the fortress was made during the reign of the Al-Ali family at the end of the 11th Hijra century (17th century AD) and the additions and annexes were made to it during the rule of the Al-Rasheed family. During the Saudi rule, the fortress was used for the sighting of the Ramadan moon and for firing of the Iftar gun.

Built on a mountain peak, the fortress could be seen from anywhere in Hail

Taking pictures of the fort is only allowed after securing approval from the caretaker.

Uraif Castle View

Uraif Castle view from the gate

Uraif Castle stairs

Al Qishlah Palace

Al Qashla building architectural style represents one of the most attractive areas of urban heritage. Al Qishlah were built in 1362H during the reign of King Abdul Aziz to be used as a military barrack. Al Qishlah is a two storey building which is built by combinations of clay, stone, and wood according to architectural style known in Najd area. The palace has two large gates at the east and south sides. There is a total of 142 rooms in the building which faces the internal yard. At the center, there is a mosque with uncovered praying area and basement.