Exploring the province of Al Jouf (Northern Borders)

                              Sakakah..The capital of Al Jouf Province..view from Qasr Za'abal

Al Jouf Province is located around 1100 kms. from Riyadh and is the gateway to the Northern borders. I have been traveling from Riyadh to this province  by land in the past three years, and in my experience, there are two (2) routes to choose and enjoy. Each route offers amazing sceneries and adventure.

The first route passes to the province of Majmaa, Zulfi, Buraydah, Hail, and the last portion, which is the most exciting part, experience driving to around 320 to 350 kms. of sand dunes. You will be amazed with the beauty of this desert specially during winter where the sun's ray adds color to the huge sand dunes and the appearance of clouds, if you are lucky enough, will make you stop and enjoy the scenery. The bad news of this route? There's no gasoline station along the highway for the whole route, this information is true as of February 2012, during my last visit in the Northern Border provinces. Now for the good news, as of February 2012, there's a small store managed by one of the  railway worker. Here you will find cold water and sodas, energy drinks, biscuits and hot cup noodles. The store opens at 4:30 am and closes at 12:00 midnight. Although closed, this store serves as a parking area for some travelers and trailer drivers. The end of the highway leads you to a small village and the first gas station on the right side of the highway. To go to Domat Al Jandal, Sakakah, Jouf airport, and Arar, take the exit before the bridge. Traffic sign is available and written in both Arabic and English to guide motorists traveling to Al Jouf.

                                         Posing along Hail - Jouf  Desert


Here are some of the images taken along the Route 1 :

                                            

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The second route passes to Majmaa town proper. From the Riyadh - Qassim highway, take the first exit going to Majmaa town proper. Follow the sign and route to Hafr Al Batin and Kuwait. Hafr Al batin is around 400 km. from Majmaa. You will then pass thru Rafha and Arar. From Arar, take the route to Al Jouf. Al Jouf is around 150 km. from Arar. Opting to go on this route, you have to travel around 1200 km. from Riyadh. The good news? Since this is the old route from Northern Border provinces to Riyadh, Eastern Region, Kuwait, and Emirates, gasoline stations, hotels, and stores can be found along the main highway in every town and villages. Now, for the bad news...the road is already old but still passable and up to this time, was still the main route from Northern region to Eastern region, Kuwait and Emirates. Travelers along this route are cautioned and alerted  at all times since desert kings (camels), sometimes in groups, crosses the highway even at night. This is some of the images caught during my trip passing through this route 2 years ago....

 

Camel shepherd along Majmaa - Hafr Batin road

 

                                                       Herds of Camels along the highway

 

 The owner

 

 

 

 Another group of camels spotted along Majmaa - Hafr Al Batin highway

 

Al Jouf offers a number of Historical and Heritage sites to the visitors. It is again advisable to explore this sites in the cold season since Al Jouf temperature is usually hot and dry from May to the month of September.

Domat Al Jandal

After four (4) hours of continous drive and with almost no fuel left, I finally arrived in the first  village of Al Jouf province...Domat Al Jandal. As you approach the town center, around 20 - 25 km. from the main highway, you will find a red signboard with Saudi Tourism Logo (SCTA). mentioning  Domat's heritage and cultural pride. All sites can be found easily since they are mostly located within the town proper. Omar Bin Al Khattab Mosque, Domat Museum, and Qasr Marid are located within city center.

Omar Bin Al-Kattab Mosque

This mosque refers back to Caliph Omar bin Al-Khattab who ordered it built during his return from Bait Al-Maqdis (Jerusalem). The importance of this mosque lies in its planning which represents continuity of the same plans of the building’s first mosque in Islam. It is one of the most ancient mosques that kept its shape, with it’s minaret and architecture, which is considered one of the oldest minarets in Islam history, and lies to the south western corner of the mosque, and deviates from the level of Qibla wall. Minaret foundation is square shape three meters long, and it’s stone walls narrow to the entrance, till it end with a semi cone peak. The total height of minaret is about 7.12 meters. It is considered one of the oldest minarets all over Arabian Peninsula. Stone (Al Jandal Stone) is used in building mosque and minaret, as it is the case of castle and Al-Dira district.

 

Location

 

From Al Jouf Highway take the exit to Domat Al Jandal, Sakakah, and Arar. The exit is on the right side of the highway. Don't forget to fill up on the first gas station since the entrance to Domat town is around 25 km. more. Take extra care and do not exceed the speed limit since police cars and monitoring devices are mounted along this highway.

 

As you enter the town proper, follow the main road until you arrived on a ringroad in front of Kudu restaurant. From the ringroad coming from main highway, turn left. You should find Saudia office and fire station on your left. Follow the route and after two traffic lights just before the road started to descend, you will find Qasr Marid, Omar Mosque and the museum on your right. The museum is open Saturday to Thursday from 9:00 am to 2:00 pm. (Schedules may change..consult Saudi Tourism main office before your planned travel).

 

Hotels and Restaurants

 

The best place to stay in Domat as of my last visit last February 2012 is Domat hotel. The rooms and toilet are clean and rooms available for bachelor and family. If you require, they can recommend tourist guides in order to save your time. Require a Filipino tourist guide? My e-mail and contact number is available in my blog information (just kidding). Coffee lovers? If you cannot find your brewed coffee and favorite frappuccino in the hotel, there's two drive-up coffee shops just outside the hotel on your way to Kudu. You will find also our kabayan making your favorite order, that is, if he did not opt to exit yet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Top view of Omar Mosque from Qasr Marid

 

 

 A worms eye view of Omar Mosque

 

 

Omar Mosque

 

 

 

 View of the Mosque

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                               The Photographer



Qasr Marid

Located just beside Omar mosque.

This was a main town on the ancient trade route that linked Mesopotamia, Persia and Syria with Yemen, and was vital to the spread of Islam as the gateway to Palestine and Syria through Wadi al-Sirhan

Located 50km south of the capital Sakakah, Domat al-Jandal means "Dawma of the stone." The name comes from the local belief that the town was first settled by Dawma, son of Ismail and grandson of the prophet Ibrahim. Archeologists have found abundant evidence that long before Ismail's time, Jouf's fresh water and fertile soil had proven attractive to settlers. This modest town boasts a ruined castle, a remarkable mosque, and a system of wells and ancient irrigation canals known as qanats (a signature piece of plumbing from the great Nabataean empire). The fact that the qanats are still working means that the Oasis of Sakakah and Domat Al-Jandal have remained verdant and fertile. Arabian, Babylonian, Nabataean and Islamic records all show that this is one of the most ancient settlements in Arabia. The city was the base for Adumites, known by Assyrians as 'Al Domatu' (Adummatu) who describe it as "the seat of the King of the Arabs". This region is also identified with the biblical Midian; and a region known to the ancient Egyptians as Kashu. Domat al-Jandal also appears in the bible atlases as 'Dhuma'; inscriptions in the city date back 3,000 years; it was ruled by a number of Arabian Queens including Queen Zabibei, Queen Shamsi. With so many trade routes passing through, the souq here became one of the most famous of the Arabian markets in pre-Islamic times. When it was ruled by Sukonians from Kindah, the markets were held during Rabi Al Awwal. Control of each market was agreed after a 'duel' between competing tribal leaders. The 'king' who won, was allowed to allocate the stalls for the market - which could begin only once he'd sold all his merchandise. Qasr Marid (meaning 'giant castle') is 1.2km east of Domat al-Jandal. The palace is built high on a rocky hill overlooking the ad-Dir. It is an impressive structure with an oval shape, four conical towers, passages and a well. It functioned as the governor’s residence and home to a garrison for the soldiers. Ramparts provide a great view over the town and oasis. The castle is also known as 'Al-Ukaidir' (after one of it's most famous residents). The foundations date to Nabataean times. Records of Queen Zenobia's expeditions name Fort Marid as being impenetrable. It was the seat of local government until the new fort built by Al-Rashids replaced it. There has been substantial restoration to the building which was completed in 1423H (2002). The castle has been visited by a number of famous travelers including The Prophet Mohamed (pbuh) in 5H (626), Abdul Rahman Awf 6H (628) and Khaled Bin Al Waleed (may Allah be pleased with him) in 9H (630). Amongst the European visitors were Valin in 1261H (1845), Pelgrave in 1279H (1864), Lady Blunt in 1290H (1873), Euting 1300H (1884), Forder in 1318H (1901), Butter in 1325H (1908) and Philby in 1340H (1922). Ad Dir (Al Dera) The Old Town is located to the north of Qasr Marid. This old settlement of Domat al-Jandal represents a model of an Islamic city and traditional architecture in the region. Excavations conducted at parts of the settlement showed that it was built over successive layers, going back to the pre-Islamic period. The old town has a narrow passage between two story buildings made of limestone and mud-bricks. Roofs were made of wood and palm. Water channels (qanats) were found at the eastern and western parts of the settlement. The actual buildings which are standing there today are not that old, but earlier building materials have been used - meaning that ancient Nabataean inscriptions are visible on some stones. A small portion of Domat al-Jandal's once formidable city wall has been restored and can be viewed without a permit in the desert just outside the town. The watchtowers along the wall were hollow all the way to ground level. Next to Ad Dir is the minaret of the Mosque of Omar (Umar Mosque). It is possibly the oldest existing one in the world. Dating back to 15H (AD644) it is unique in its design, being square shaped, with tapered sides and windows at each story. It is built over an arch that allows a street to pass through its base. The minaret is the only remaining original feature of a mosque built by 2nd Caliph, Omar bin al-Khattab (Umar ibn al-Khattab) (may Allah be gracious to him) in 17H (AD644) on his way back from his Jerusalem conquest (Al Quds). Still in use, the mosque is not particularly tall, it has a carved door with red geometric patterns and is wholly unlike any other mosques you'll see. It is built using stones and clay. Its ceiling is made up of wood and palm trees. It has a prayer niche, a pulpit, a prayer room for women and a little well, which was used for drinking and ablution. Its area is about 600 sqm and it is still in good shape. The once famous oasis of Sakakah is still lush, and the city and surrounding area continues to produce large amounts of wheat, citrus fruit and olives. It also supports over half a million mature date palms and is the homeland for the tribe called 'Kalb'. The nearest accommodation is in Sakakah 50km away, where you'll also find an excellent museum. The hotel can arrange tours of Domat Al Jandal / Jouf and transport. (Reference  "Saudi Tourism site")

Location

Qasr Marid is located near Domat Museum and Omar Mosque although entrance gates are separate.

 

On the way to castle rooftop

 

 

A view of Qasr Marid from the main entrance

 

 

Old structure beside castle stairs

 

 

                                                    Castle entrance from the museum


Domat Lake

Domat lake can be found around 5 Km. en route to Rajajeel and Sakakah. It was a natural lake and in the past years, was developed to irrigate nearby farmlands. I was also informed that in the early days, the water level is 5 meters higher than present. Domat Lake is home to group of wild ducks. This place is famous not only to the local inhabitants but to the whole Jouf province. In the cold season, this place is a famous spot for gathering among local and expatriate families although the lake is not suitable for swimming. Looking for another activity? Why don't you experience riding Domat Lake's famous calesa. Watching the sunset on the other end of the lake is one of my treasured experience. One thing I noticed during my visit was that, as soon as the sun sets, everybody hurriedly left the lake perimeters..why? It is for you to find out........


Location

For those without GPS, from Domat Al Jandal town proper, follow the signs to Sakakah or Al Jouf airport. As soon as you pass Domat police checkpoint, look for the a road on your left. Turn left to this road and continue driving along winding roads until you see a road ascending. Follow the road and signage will direct you to the site.

Coordinates

N 29deg 48min 42.9 secs
E 39deg 55min 09.9secs

 

Sunset view from Domat lake

 

 

 

                                          Domat Lake is home to hundreds of wild ducks

 

 

 A View of Domat Lake from the viewing deck

 

 

 An OFW in Domat Lake

 

 

 

 Calesa rides in Domat Lake

 

 

 

 

 

 A touch of sunset

 

 

 

 

 

 Posing with a friend in Domat

KOWA

Ar Rajajeel

A group of stone pillars that are known to be perpendicular with sunrise and sunset. From the western side of the group, there is a semi- circle building, except for one, and many of these pillars were in bad shape. Group is formed of four pillars each about three meters high. Ar Rajajeel site could be traced historically to the fourth century BC. Many stone tools were discovered on the site, some could be traced to the end of Neolithic era, as a group of arrows, scrapers and drills. Ar Rajajeel name came from the “shapes that are similar to men shapes” in Arabic.

 

Location

From Domat Al Jandal ringroad, take the exit to Sakakah. You should pass the police checkpoint and the road to Doamt lake. Follow the sign to airport and Sakakah town. After passing the entrance to Al Jouf airport (on your right side going to Sakakah), you will find Aramco after 5 to 8 kilometers. After passing the Aramco main entrance, look for the sign Ar Rajajeel on your right side or to Kowa town. You should turn right once you found the sign.  After 10 Km., drive slowly until you see the Ar Rajajeel sign on your right side.

 

Hotels and Restaurants

The location is secluded and there's no toilets. There is an ongoing construction of an structure beside the site on my last visit last February 2012 although there is no sign regarding its identification. The nearest restaurant and hotels are those located in Domat Al Jandal and Sakakah. Be sure to bring your water and snacks before traveling to this site.

 

 

 

 Standing stones of Rajajeel

 

 

 

 Another set of stones

 

 

 

 

 Early writings

 

 

SAKAKAH

Za’abal Castle

 

Could be traced back to about 200 years, and it is possible that castle was built on the remains of an old building that could be traced back to the Nabatean era during the first century BC to first century AC. At the castle yard, there is a basin for water collection. Saisar well is located on the castle side and was dug in the rocks, that could be traced back to Nabatean era. Inside the well, there is a ladder for descending, and from the eastern side, there is a channel for drilling water to the city. Bornos mountain lies to the western side and it includes rocky inscriptions and paintings.

Location

Za'abal Castle is located in Sakakah town center. From ANB branch ( on your left side), drive straight and on the first traffic light, turn left. Follow the road until you arrived on a T-intersection. Turn right and follow the road and after 3 to 4 stoplights you  will arrive in a crossing and you will also see a landscape of flowing water on your left side. Turn left (this road starts to descend) an you will finally found the castle on your left.

Hotels and Restaurants

There are 3-start and 5-star hotels in Sakakah, and it is the capital of Al Jouf Province. The best hotel in town is Al Nusl (5 star), rooms are superb and foods are great. There are also a number of 3 star hotels around Sakakah but be sure to have enough cash as SPAN services are sometimes not available. You will find Kudu in this town, Othaim and Panda are nearby this hotel. Banks and ATM's are available throghout Sakakah and Domat town. Al Nusl offers tourist guide services if required.

 

 

Stairs leading to castle entrance.

 

 

To visit the castle tower, you have to climb the renovated stairs and the original stairs dated hundred of years ago. Experience traveling back in time as you set your foot in this incredible structure...

 

 

 

 View of Sakakah from Castle Tower

 

 

 View of Castle Tower from the castle main entrance

 

 

 Tower of Za'abal Castle

 

                                                        Sunset view from Za'abal Castle




Sisra Well

Located 200 meters from Zaabal castle, the well dates back to Nabatean era (1st century BC to end of 1st century AD). The well has an opening in the East side to supply water to the farms. It's bore measure 8m x 9m and depth of 15 meters.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saudi Tourism (SCTA) office beside Sisra well and near Za'abal castle.

 

 

Well, now that you had a glimpse of what Al Jouf province can offer, what are you waiting for..experience Saudi Arabia...visit Al Jouf Province..It's waiting for you to discover...........